Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari province is located in the southwest of Iran. One percent of Iran's soil, ten percent of Iran's running water, ninety percent of it is mountainous and has a temperate mountainous nature. The economic and livelihood production method is animal husbandry, animal husbandry, agriculture in the form of grains and horticulture. Production activities in this province are very limited and service activities are very extensive. The dominant face of economic production is service activities in both internal and external forms and in the dominant state and private forms.
The people of Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari live in the shelter of high mountains, a flowing river, and a mountainous climate, noble people who have always played a great role in the country throughout history, migrant Turks in terms of ethnic connection with the Qashqais and a group of Persian speakers from Lanjat. Isfahan immigrated to this province and basically "in a sense, they form the Persian speakers and they speak Lanjani dialect to be ambassadors of decency and hospitality along with the Bakhtiaris."
. Life is in three forms: living in the city, living in the village, and migrating. It is possible to call living in the city and living in the countryside at the same time. Although nomadism among the people has gradually lost its place and has given its place to a successor, but the life of the people is still nomadic, which means that they still think of a tribe and tribe. . Causal and relative links have created the tribe and have been formed throughout history and have turned into a collective spirit that we call identity.
We have two types of caravans, one with a long range and another with a short range. The Bakhtiari caravan is a long-range caravan and the Dehkordi shepherds' caravan is a short-range caravan. There are several ways to identify nomads, for example, those who have a place suffix are not nomads, another way to identify nomads is to ask about darkness and thirst, etc. The next method is the dialect method that brings us closer to the goal.
Chaharmahal is the four neighborhoods of Bakhtiari, which has a place name and does not refer to a specific tribe or ethnicity, and its inhabitants speak the Bakhtiari dialect, such as
Mizdaj: which ranges from Farsan to Dzonghan and the majority speak the Bakhtiari dialect
Kiyar: which is taken from Kahlar Mountain and they live from Dastna to Zordgan and Shalmazar, and their dialect is Bakhtiari.
Lar: From Sureshjan to Murghmalek and Haruni and their dialect is Lari
Outside Bakhtiari Mohals: It includes the center of the province, Saman Bin, Farrokhshahr, Faradenbe, and Safid Dasht, which are basically in the Bakhtiari map, but they are not in Chaharmahal, so in the definition of these places, they are called outside Bakhtiari Mohal.
The four Mahals are the four districts of Lar (Rar), Kiyar (Klar), Mizdaj (Muzdaj), and Kandman (Kandman).
"Do you want to know where Arbaah is impossible, where is Lar, Kiyar, Mizdaj, Kandman"
Chahar Mahal Arbaeh Bakhtiari is formed from four places and its range is Rukh, Saman, Sodjan, Three Blades, Zardkouh, Duplan (Ardel) to Kurd Shami (in Borujen). In the meantime, we note that Lordegan and three villages: Flard, Janki (Jonki) and Khanmirza (Mirza's house) were considered part of Fars province in the past and they joined Chahar Mahal about 100 years ago.
The history of Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari in ancient times:
One of the historical characteristics of Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari in the ancient period is the rule of ancient Ilam civilization. The area of the Elamian government is: Lorestan, Isfahan, Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari, Bushehr, Kakhiloyeh Boyer Ahmad. At that time, Izeh was called Azal and the present Chaharmahal was called Charsudash. Part of Charsudash was connected to Fars and the rest formed Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari. Another area covered by ancient Ilam was Lordegan, and Kohrang is a very important part of this. It has been a civilization. In the Elamite period, the god of flowing waters was called Karang. Karang (Kern) is the name of the god of flowing waters. In Fars, in a place called Kerangun, there is a relief of this god, who is sitting in the form of a statue with a fountain of water coming out of his palm. Karun and Zayandeh River originate from here, that's why this area is called Karang. Zayandeh Rood, Karun and Dez originate from the Zard mountain ranges, from the natural glaciers of this mountain range. Karang, Kern, Zarde and Zard are the main names of Zayandeh Rood. Bakhtiari call Zayandeh Rood Zarde. Dez, which is the main tributary of Zayandeh River, originates from Dez plain (current Zarin). Karang or Zarde or Kern all mean jaundice. Horse mead is rare and in Kurdi Karang means a place where nomads graze and leave the horses to fatten.
Assyrians destroyed the civilization of Elam. The Elamites have mastered the extraction of metals. One of their copper mines in Madan village in Lordegan and cobalt mine is one of the world's strategic mines. Another important feature of the Elamite period is the existence of a road. This road starts from Isfahan, where the stone pavement remains on the mountainside, the road goes to Qahfarakh and has two branches, one to Zaman Khan Saman bridge (Saman border between Chaharmahal and Isfahan) and the other branch connects Saman to more challenging. These two roads used to meet. The other road of Qahfarakh goes from the back of the town to Taghank and Shalamzar (the current Khuzestan road) and it also reaches Junqan, Darekesh Varkash valley.
Anthropological characteristics of Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari province:
1- Unquestionable citizenship of the community
2- Excitability
3- Rightly or wrongly, they fall in love with something and defend their attachments rightly or wrongly.
4- Don't think of the day
5- Protection from everything that depends on them in some way.
6- Extreme altitude sickness
7- They are not students at all.
8- They don't know where they are going, they just go and always eat with closed doors.
9- They have zero hope for life, but they also consider the day of danger.
10-Severe personality conflict
11- Being under the influence of the crowd
12- They have many secrets, but at the same time they are scandalous.
14- They have small hearts, they cannot hold anything in it.
15- They are worried
The literature of the place shows the cultures and the charms of their people are their civilization.
For the Bakhtiaris, three things are of high importance, which are: love for guns, love for horses, and love for Islam and Sadat.
The role of Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari in different governments:
In the story of the fall of the Sassanids, we face Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari with tolerance. The arrival of Islam in Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari took 3 centuries, the main reasons for which are the mountainous nature of the region, their anthropological characteristics, and their nomadic nature.
Gold coins have been obtained from Al-Buyeh period.
In the Seljuk period, we encounter Lordegan (Lordegan and three districts were a part of Sardan province in Lorestan and were the center of Lordegan). Naser Khosro Qabadiani has a trip to Lordegan, which is also called Lordegan, Lordejan, Lordegan and Lordejan. Nasser Khosrow, describing Lergan, says that it has bad weather, it is hot, and there are plenty of grapes, and he refers to the lead mine or mine village. At the end of the Seljuk period, the border of Ler Bozor consists of: Firuzan City, Golpaygan, Azna, Aligudarz, Shushtar, Izeh, Bagh Malek, and Ram Hormoz and Mamsani in Fars province.
The great Atabakan Ler dynasty is the first local dynasty that has national effects. Atabakan Ler the Great faced several factors during his rule:
1- Emigration of Ekrad (Kurds) from Sham (Syria)
2- Migration of the Mongols
The great Atabakan Ler had a people's government, believed in Persian literature, had religious tolerance, were educated and gave importance to the economy, at the same time, they followed the nomadic way. In the Achaemenian and Sassanian style, they had two capitals, one belonging to Amir or Izeh, and the other to Zarde village, which is located on the border of Kahkiluyeh and Boyer Ahmad with Lordegan.. Ibn Battuta says that the Atabkans of Ler were great peasants and they wanted the people to be safe and built caravans. They built and even gave travel expenses to the travelers, horses and food were given to the travelers for free. Ashbuler believes that Ler were of Hanbali age. The Hanbalis follow Ahmad Ibn Hanbal. This religion is very close to Shia. Ibn Battuta says, "I did not see immorality and debauchery in this territory." And this shows the way of the rulers, because the Holy Prophet said: "People follow the way of their rulers." are" .
After the fall of the Seljuks and at the same time as Sultan Jalaluddin Khwarazmshah Atabkan Ler's rule, they prepared a large army to confront the Mongols, but Sultan Jalal Khwarazmshah considered Atabkan Ler a barbarian, and Atabkan Ler the Great returned and the Mongols attacked the country. When Halako Khan became the Mughal Ile Khan and planned to attack the Abbasid government from the west of Iran, the great Atabakan Ler took place in the Mongol army and besieged the Abbasid caliphate in Baghdad. Therefore, in the fall of the Abbasid caliphate, Atabakan Ler Bozur were involved. Atabkan left the great Ler Tuman of the Mongols and took refuge in the high fort of Mangesht (Ganjashk) in the north of the current Suleiman Mosque, where even the catapults of Halakukhan could not reach there. Atabak made peace with Amannameh. They killed Atabak and gave the government to his son.
The Mongols did not come to Atabakan Ler, but they left an impact on their culture, for example, they learned long-distance migration from the Mongols. And another point is that in Bazfat, Lordegan and Khuzestan, the domes of Imamzadeh are not Iranian domes. The domes of the southern region up to Khuzestan are in the shape of Mongolian hats. In Shush Daniel, the domes are conical and mineral steps.
Hafez, who is a contemporary of Timurids, has a poem describing Kor Pashang, in which he praises the great Atabakan Ler. Atabakan Ler the Great is destroyed by Timur Lang's grandson named Ibrahim Lang.
We have no information about the situation of Chaharmahal and Bakhtiari until the Safavid era. This period (from the Timurids to the beginning of the Safavid period) is called the period of nature.
Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari are known to us from the Safavid period onwards. Shah Ismail I, the founder of the Safavid dynasty, who invites people to the Shia religion with a sword, when he reaches the fringes of the lers, he wonders why the Shia lers do not support the government. The name Mahal Arbaah appears for the first time. In this period, the name of the Bakhtiaris is also mentioned, and the government of the region is given to Amir Taj Mir Bakhtiari from the Bakhtiarivand clan. After some time, Amir Taj Mir declares war on Shah Tahmasab, which leads to his arrest and imprisonment, and Amir Hossein Khan replaces him. Amir Hossein Khan claims independence and Amir Taj Mir is returned as the ruler of the region, but on the condition of paying taxes, which were taken based on the population. The taxes of the nomads were based on the number of their animals, for example, for the Bakhtiaris, the number of mares was the criterion (four lames is one complete mare, seven lames is one complete mare, and three quarters of another mare, which is divided into the remaining quarter).
Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari played a role in the downfall of the Safavids, because at this time the Bakhtiari were persecuted. When Mahmud Afghan attacked Isfahan, the Bakhtiari took a passive position and did not help the government, but also worked against the government. . In the documents related to the fall of the Safavids, it is mentioned about the resistance of Deh bin Esfahun that Sedeh or Khomeini is the current city and not the city of Bin Dar Mahal and Bakhtiari. During the period of Fitrat or the fall of the Safavids, Charar Mahal and Bakhtiari are independent.
During Afsharia, Ali Murad Khan Bakhtiari rebelled against Nader Shah, and Nader was forced to destroy the area and ordered to hand over Murad Ali Khan. By Nader's order, one hand and one leg of Murad Ali Khan were cut off, and then They kill him. The forces of Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari entered the Nader Corps and together with the Nader Corps went to conquer Kandahar. They conquered Kandahar on their own under the leadership of Mullah Adina, and this caused Nader's anger. helped)
Nader did not take the Bakhtiaris to India, that is why the Bakhtiaris remain in Afghanistan, where they still live in the outskirts of Kandahar and with the Bakhtiari family.
During the period of Zandiya, Abul Fatah Khan Bakhtiari (from Sadat Lahijan) and Ali Mardan Khan Bakhtiari are both allies of Karim Khan Zand. After the death of Abul Fatah Khan Bakhtiari, a war takes place between Ali Mardan Khan Bakhtiari and Karim Khan Zand in Dasht Zari region, in which Ali Mardan Khan was defeated and took refuge in Zard Mountain, and for the first time his name appeared in the books. it is possible . Karim Khan is camping in Dehkord for a week. One of Karim Khan's measures at this time is the repair of the arched windows of Imamzade Halima Khatoon.
During the Qajar era, the Bakhtiaris did not get along with Agha Muhammad Khan, which led to the death of Abdal Khan Chahar Lang. During the period of Fath Ali Shah Qajar, Fath Ali Khan married one of the Bakhtiaris named Zainab Khanum, and this caused the Bakhtiaris to gain power in Isfahan, but Isfahan was killed and looted by Hashim Khan Bakhtiari Lanbani. At this time, Fath Ali Shah comes to Isfahan and tortures Hashim Khan. During the period of Muhammad Shah Qajar, a person named Muhammad Taqi Khan Chahar Lang rose up. Mohammad Taqi Khan had secretly made an agreement with the British and with a person named Liard. This uprising ends with the defeat of Muhammad Taqi Khan Chahar Lang and his arrest with the personal cooperation of Hossein Qoli Khan Ilkhani Haft Lang. Hossein Qoli Khan, who was very political and had many brothers and children, coped with the shadow of the ruler of Isfahan and southern Iran, and for this reason, he passed the steps of promotion very quickly, and he was named Ilkhani, which means the ruler of the river. . At this time, the Bakhtiari singers were weak. . Waqi Hossein Qoli Khan decided to get married. Esfandiar Khan, the governor of Qahfarakh, and Ali Qoli Khan, the ruler of Junqan, were in prison in Isfahan. It precedes command and control. The rulers of Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari in that period were:
- Ali Qoli Khan Khan, the ruler of Junqan, nicknamed Amir Toman, and after the death of his brother named Sardar Asad II
Najafaqli Khan Samsam al-Sultaneh, ruler of Shalamzar, who is the brother of Sardar Asad I and II
- Esfandiar Khan, Brigadier of Samsam al-Sultaneh, ruler of Qafarakh, who was nicknamed Sardar Asad I at the end of his life
- Jahanshah Khan Samsam (grandson of Najaf Qoli Khan and son of Morteza Qoli Khan), the ruler of Tek Castle
-Mortaza Qoli Khan, the ruler of Dehkord (Mortaza Qoli Khan's wife's name is Bibi Mah Begum Samsam).
- Chirag Ali Khan Samsam Bakhtiari Malik Vanan (son of Najaf Qoli Khan, who later gives Chirag Ali Khan Vanan to his son Amir Feroz Khan and goes to Arjank himself)
-Fath Ali Khan, Sardar Moazem Hakim of Dezak
-Nasir Khan, war chief in Surak castle and another castle in Herchagan
-Mohammed Taqi Khan Asad (son of Sardar Asad), ruler of Cheliche
- Mansour Khan Raki in Sarpul Sudjan in a castle known as Jangi Castle
- Bardeh Castle is in the hands of Khanin Chahar Lang (all other castles are in the hands of Khanin Haft Lang)
Names of some of Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari regions and introduction of their historical works:
Qahfarakh
Local etymology: - coffee houses behind the Rukh mountain (Rukh coffee)
- A person named Farrukh Shah ruled there
- There was a place behind Mount Rukh where people lived (Qafa Rukh).
Authentic etymology: It is mentioned in Ibn Battuta's travel book Kariweh al-Rukh. Gariweh means a neck, which was gradually changed to Kariweh and then Gariweh. Therefore, Qahfarakh means the neck of Rukh.
Historical works of Qahfarakh:
Qahfarukh Grand Mosque, which belongs to the era of Shah Sultan Hossein Safavid. There was an inscription in this mosque known as the inscription commanding good and forbidding evil in this mosque, which is now kept in a museum in Shahrekord. Similar to this inscription, there are five cities of Ardabil, Tabriz, Qazvin, Kashan and Isfahan, which are important Safavid cities. have existed and the sixth inscription is in Qafarrokh, which is an indication of the importance of Qafarrokh in that era. The mosque of Qafarrokh is a national monument of Iran. In Farrokh city, Haj Hossein Salehi's oil extraction factory produces the best linseed oil in the country. It is believed that the stone of this Assar house was brought from Sabze Meydan in Isfahan in the Safavid period. There is an inscription on Koh Rukh in the place of Garne Rukh (near the road of the current house) and on the way of Des Part Road, which is a monument of the Safavid era and related to the year 1062.
Vanan
Local etymology:- Way Nun
Vanan means a place where there is a lot of water!!!
Correct etymology: There is a tree in Vanan (Mehrabad and Charaghabad) named Bene, Vane, Van or Sisteh. There was a forest of this type of tree in Vanan. They still prepare a local food called Ash Beneh in Vanan.
Dehkord
Local etymology: - De Gard means ten wrestlers (Gard means wrestler)
- Abbas Iqbal says that there is a tithe on the trade route that the guards brought it from Kurdistan (Kurds).
- In Dehkord, a garment called Kordin is produced and worn by shepherds
Correct etymology: Kurd means a herdsman or herdsman. The name Deh Kurd has been mentioned in documents and documents since the Safavid period and in books since the Zandiyeh period, and has become central since the end of the Qajar period until today. Dehkord can be considered the free trade zone of Chahar Mahal and Bakhtiari.
Historical works of Shahrekord: Saqqah house of Abbas Mirza, related to the Qajar period, painted by Mirza Ali Isfahani, unique in Iran, and built by Abbas Mirza Riahi. Shahrekord Jame Mosque, which is also known as Khan Mosque and Haj Mohammad Reza Riyahi Mosque, which is similar to this mosque in Chalanter, and the plan of this mosque is inspired by Hakim Mosque of Isfahan. Abu Muhammad Mosque in the old context of Shahrekord, belonging to the Qajar era. The new mosque and the bath next to it (the current Ferdowsi tea house) belong to the Qajar era. Mellat Park Cemetery. The Imamiya Theological School located in Hafaf Dozha alley belongs to the Qajar period. The mausoleum of Imamzadegan Hakima and Halima Khatun, the painting of this mausoleum is by the late Seyyed Mohsen Heshmat. Among the other buildings of the Qajar period is the ancient Duqulvi Hamam. Atabakan Mosque or Bazar Mosque, of which only the nave is left now.
Chaleshtar
Local etymology: - Camel pit, place where camels are bred, there is a pit in Chalanter where camels were bred.
Correct etymology: Ashtar or camel, which is derived from star or star, which is another name for the star Venus. There were temples of the goddess Anahita there, and there was water there because Anahita was the god of flowing waters. In addition, the name of the queen of Khashayar Shah is also a star.
More challenging historical monuments: Jame Mosque from the Qajar period, the more challenging Azadeh mansion known as the Azadeh House from the Qajar period, and the Sotoudeh mansion from the year 1323 AH. A. The interesting thing about Chalanter is that Chalentar is the only village in Iran that does not have a cemetery, and its washhouse is located in the middle of the village, and the dead are buried in the village of Ashkaftak.
Pir balut
Pir means great and respectable. There is an oak tree in Pir Balut, and the oak tree is a mythical tree because it is strong and stable and has had many uses, for example, the leaves of this tree have been used as animal feed, and oak charcoal is of high quality. It is considered the best coal because it does not have coke and they make flour from oak bark, which is black in color.
Farsan
The name Farsan:- people had a horseman (Persia means horseman)
- They were Persians, that is, Persians (they are Bakhtiari)
Among the historical monuments, we can mention the monument hill in Farsan, as well as the inscription of constitutionalism in Pir Ghar.
Hefshejan
Nickname: Seven Braves
- Hashgun (Hoshang from Pishdadi kings)
- Heishe means a forest (Bisheh Gan).
Zanyan (Mahdia)
Designation: In the pre-Islam era, instead of the letter dal, they used the word zal, and in fact, the wise are the wise.
Bakhtiari clans live in this village
Borujen
Denomination: - Orjan means Ure Jeste (one of the lords settled in this place)
- It has many towers (towers)
Historical monuments: the bathroom of the school, the house of the Yazidis from the Qajar period, and the Mosla bridge from the Qajar period, which has an inscription.
Baba Haider
Name: There are two mausoleums in Baba Haider, one is Haider bin Malik and the other is Seyyed Mir Ahmad (Darvish). Bakhtiari are
Saman
Historical monuments: Zaman Khan Bridge in Saman remains from the Safavid period and was repaired in the Qajar period. There is also a mosque from the Qajar period in Saman. In a place called Ivan Kiev, there is the tomb of Dehghan Samani, who was designed by engineer Hoshang Sihun.
Junaqan
Adjective: - blood atmosphere
- Ginkon means the place of Gon
Historical works of Dzonghan: Ali Qoli Khan Castle, Sardar Asad II Bakhtiari from the Qajar period. The unique inscription of the plague in the north of Dzonghan from the period of Muzaffaruddin Shah. Teng Dar Kash Verkash (in the meaning of disaster and low), which is one of the unique works, and Behesht Abad bridge related to Qajar.
Ardel
Historical works: Ardal Castle related to Abulqasem Khan Bakhtiari. There are Bard Guri works and Anahita temples in Sar Pir Ardel.
Shalamzar
Historical work: Najaf Qali Khan Samsam al-Sultaneh castle
lordegan
Historical monuments: the castle of the Seljuk period next to the village of Baram, which has been destroyed. The mining village where there are metal works. Madrasah Castle (Dervish gathering place) in Pataq Pass where Nasser Khosrow Qabadiani also passed and is related to the Seljuk period.
Gandoman
Nickname: Kundman means big ditch
Surshjan
Local etymology:-
Correct etymology: In Lari dialect, "Shor" means a valley full of water, the water of which is warmer than other places, and one of the branches of Karun is from here.
Sureshjan is a villa owned by Bibi Mariam, the sister of Sardar Asad (Sardar Mariam). In Sureshjan, the castle of Fethullah Khan Arshad al-Dawlah belonged to Bibi Mariam's wife, which was destroyed. Among the interesting points in Sureshjan is the existence of black-skinned groups there who came from Africa and still live there. And also the presence of the Ottoman officers who stayed in the place after the fall of the Ottoman Empire, including a person named Hasan Stamboli. Near Sureshjan, there is a village called Chobin, which is said to be the birthplace of Bahram Chobin.
Bakhtiari cover
Bakhtiari men's clothing includes: a black felt hat made from a part of goat hair called kaz. Its place of production is currently Shahrekord, Farsan and Borujen. Chogha, which is actually the official dress of the Bakhtiaris and is made of sheep wool, has a ziggurat pattern on it. The color of chugha is black and white. (This dress came from Lorestan. In the past, men's clothes were shawls and qobas.) The best type of chugha is woven by the Kiarsi people. Debit pants are black in color and made of the same fabric. Giweh is a type of shoe whose upper is woven in Najaf Abad. The sole is also knitted. The best type of mercury is Malki mercury. Giweh is made in Shahrekord, Farrokhshahr and Borujen.
Bakhtiari women's clothing includes: a rectangular scarf called Mina, lakh, arkhalaq, vest, shirt, and turban, which is a kind of skirt and is usually made of velvet. Women's clothes can be found in Lordegan in happy and diverse colors.
