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Ilam province is one of the provinces of Iran, which is located in the west of this country and in a mountainous and semi-warm area with an area of 20133 square kilometers. The capital of this province is the city of Ilam. Ilam province is bordered by Iraq from the west, Khuzestan province from the south, Lorestan province from the east, and Kermanshah province from the north. According to the population statistics report of 2018, this province has a population equal to 563,898 people.

This province is one of the more or less forested provinces of Iran. Before the period of Reza Shah, this area was called Pashtkoh, but in Shahrivar 1314 AH. Sh. During the reign of Reza Shah, by the approval of the Board of Ministers and in order to remind the greatness and glory of ancient Elam civilization, the name of Hossein Abad village was changed to Ilam and this village was chosen as the city and provincial center named Ilam. The area of the ancient civilization of Elam was concentrated in the present-day Fars and Khuzestan provinces, but apparently the decision of the Reza Shah era to name the province of Elam is due to the fact that the Pashtkoh area was also a part of the ancient Elam region.

Elam is an incorrect form of the Semitic word Elam, which means a high place and a mountainous region. that avoiding the Arabic letter "A" had an effect on this spelling change.

background

This land, according to many historical documents, was a part of the ancient country of Elam, which was destroyed around 3000 years BC by the order of Ashur Bani Pal. In Babi inscriptions, Elam is called "Alamto" or "Alam". Which means mountain or "land of the rising sun". Some time after the fall of Elam, their domain was divided into two regions under the influence of Persians and Medes in the west. In the Achaemenid period, it was part of the Achaemenid Empire. After the conquest of Iran by Muslim Arabs, it is possible that this area was a part of Kufa state. From the beginning of the 4th century to the beginning of the 6th century, the Hasnawieh Kurdish family ruled over Lorestan and Ilam, and from 570 to 1006, Atabakan Ler ruled over Lorestan and Pushtkowa. Since 1309, in the country divisions, Ilam became part of the fifth province, Kermanshah.

After the Muslim Arabs dominated Iran, Ilam and Lorestan and other cities were called "Jebal" state, and since the ruler of this region, namely Masbzan and Maghzan-e-Qazq, they paid taxes and tribute to the ruler of Kufa. Therefore, this area was called Mah Kufa.

After five centuries of Arab rule over Iran, in order to facilitate the administration of that region, the said region was divided into two regions, Bakhtiari and Lorestan. Qazq festival) was also considered as a part of it, they said small ler. For about three centuries, the local government of the region was in the hands of Atabakan. After the fall of Atabakan, the local government of the region fell into the hands of governors, who ruled over the entire Lorestan region, including Ilam. In the beginning, the seat of the governors was in the fort "Falak al-Aflak" of today's Khorramabad, but during the Qajar era, in order to weaken the power of the governors and due to the differences that arose in border affairs, Iran and the Ottoman Empire, the government of Ilam was separated from Lorestan and the seat of the governor , it was transferred from "Falak al-Aflak" fortress of Khorramabad to "Peshtkoh" which was referred to Ilam, and since Ilam (Peshtkoh) was closer to the Iranian and Ottoman border line, they prevented the aggression of the Ottoman government and their provocations.

In the Qajar era, due to the importance of Lorestan, this province was divided into two regions: Pushtkoh (present-day Ilam province) and Pishkoh (present-day Lorestan) with Khorramabad as the center, and because Ilam is located on the western slopes of the Zagros mountain range and behind modern-day Lorestan (Khorramabad). And a part of the land of Ilam is located in the Kabir mountains, so it was called Pushtkoh, and Pushtkoh is the same as Masbzan (and Mehr Janqiq). Since then, the government was administered separately from Lorestan and the governors of Ilam directly obeyed the central government of Iran. After the governor's center of government was transferred to Ilam, it was called by the same title due to the dispersion of people in two districts, "Upper Deh" and "Lower Deh". After the death of "Hasan Khan" the governor, and the coming to power of "Hossein Qoli Khan" for a long time, the city of Ilam today became known as "Hussein Abad" Pashtkoh due to the fact that it was the governor's summer residence and it is remembered as "Hussein Abad". and for a long time Ilam was one of the cities of the fifth province of the country (Kermanshahan).

In Shahrivar 1314 AH. Sh. During the reign of Reza Shah, the name of the town of Hossein Abad was changed to Ilam by the approval of the Cabinet of Ministers and in order to remind the greatness and glory of the ancient Elam civilization.

Elam is an incorrect form of the Semitic word Elam, which means a high place and a mountainous region.

Country divisions

Ilam province has eight cities as follows: Abdanan, Ilam, Ivan, Dareh Shahr, Dehlran, Shirvan and Cherdavel, Malekshahi and Mehran.

Ilam was a part of Kermanshah province until 1342, but it became a province based on the country divisions of that year. During these divisions, parts of Lorestan and Khuzestan were joined to Ilam. These annexes included the valley of Dehlran, Abdanan from Lorestan and Musian from Khuzestan.

The urban areas of Ilam province are: Abdanan, Asmanabad, Arquaz, Ilam, Ivan, Badreh, Pahle, Tawheed, Chavar, Darehshahr, Dehlran, Zarna, Sarablah, Saleh Abad, Lomar, Murmuri, Musian, Mehran and Mimeh.

The economy of Ilam

Ilam is rich in oil and has many gas resources, so fifteen percent of the country's gas resources are located in this province and it also has a gas refinery. In 2007, seven industrial towns were active in Ilam province, and more than 450 different production and industrial units are active and running in these towns.

A new petrochemical unit is under construction in Ilam province. The Ilam Cement Factory also produces the highest quality cement in Iran, and the highway that connects Tehran to Kermanshah and Karbala Highway is named after Kermanshah province through Hamil city of Kermanshah province and Shirvan Cherdavel city of Ilam province to Ilam city and through Mehran to Iraq. This province has 11% of Iran's gas resources and daily 154 thousand barrels of crude oil are extracted from the oil wells of Dehlran and south of Abdanan and transported by pipeline to the refineries in the south of Iran. In 2007, 55 thousand workers were working in 3 thousand production, industrial, service and agricultural units in this province. According to the statistics announced in this year, the unemployment rate in Ilam province was 12%.

The pastures of Ilam province are one million and 164 thousand hectares, half of the pastures of the province are poor in terms of vegetation and the other half are medium and rich.

Economic and social situation

In this province, most of the economic activity is focused on animal husbandry and agriculture, and it has favorable conditions for bee breeding. The industry sector in this province has a very small share of employment compared to the agricultural and service sectors. Of course, due to the opening of the common border with Iraq in Mehran city, there are clear horizons for the development of international trade and tourism and the transit of goods and passengers. In terms of mineral resources, it mainly includes non-metallic minerals, this province is rich in oil and gas reserves.

Tourism

Among the sightseeing spots of Ilam province are the beautiful twin lakes of Abdanan, the historical castle behind the Abdanan castle (Sasanian period), the Hazardar warehouses of Abdanan (Sasanian period), the Sasanian fire temple and Shirin and Farhad arches in Ivangharb, Razianeh Tang, Mian Tang (Manshet), The ancient city of Madakto in the Darreshahr valley, the four-roofed fire temple in the Darreshahr valley, the Arghvan valley in the north of Ilam city, the Ilam dam lake, and the hot water springs of Dehlran-Sarabaklan-Mushkan fire place-Sam fortress and Imamzadeh Pir Hossein and Rostam arch located in the beautiful village of Upper Chain-Tengeh Shamshe Helsem - the historical city of Gum Gum in Cherdavel Shirvan.

Rural facilities of the province

Ilam province had 753 villages in 1378 solar year, of which 562 villages have population. Out of these villages, 470 villages have clean drinking water facilities, which are covered by rural water and sewage, and 92 villages, which have less than 20 households, do not have a water supply network.

In that year, the rural roads of Ilam province were 10 thousand and 70 kilometers of asphalted roads, and about 76% of the rural roads of this province are asphalted and infrastructured.

In 1378, he was working as a farmer in 201 villages. Literacy rate in the rural areas of the province was 81.9% that year.

Language and dialect

According to the census of the Iranian Statistics Center, the population of Ilam Province in 2005 was equal to 545,787 people, of which 278,566 were men and the rest were women. This province has 111559 households. The urban population of this province is 331231 people.

Kurdish, Lori and Arabic languages are common in Ilam province. The majority of the province's population speaks Kurdish. Kurdish speakers live in the cities of Ivan (Kolhari Kurdish), Shirvan and Cherdavel, Ilam, Mehran and in Dehlran and Abdanan (Lori and Lekki speakers). The speakers of Laki language live in parts of the surrounding cities of Dehlaran and Abdanan (Mormori part of Lori language) and also in the city of Dehlaran. In the cities of Dehlran and especially in Musian, there are some people who speak Arabic, which constitute the linguistic minority group of the province.

Ilami Kurdish, which is sometimes called "Fili Kurdish", is common in most areas of Ilam province. The word Fili is not very popular among the people of Ilam.

The Kurdish dialect of Fili has various accents, the most important of which are:

Ivan: Kalhor Malekshahi: in the cities of Ilam and Mehran

Khazli: in parts of Shirvan Cherdavel city

Abdanani: in the cities of Abdanan, Dehlran and Dareh Shahr

Ilami: in the cities of Ilam, Mehran, Shirvan Cherdavel

Badrei: in Badre district of Dereshahr city

Ilat and clans of Ilam province:

Badreh tribe, Ali Begi tribe, Ivan tribe, Balavand tribe, Zardlan tribe, Boli tribe, Kalhor tribe, Chaab tribe (Arab), Deh Bayi tribe, Mishkhashi, Malekshahi tribe, Shohan tribe, Rizvand-Arquazi tribe, Khazal tribe (the same Arabic Khazali tribe) and Eilat Lek lives in Shahr Valley, Abdanan, Badra, Dehlran, Musian, Dasht Abbas, Cham Kabod, Sarab Bagh.